At What Point Can Braids Start to Do More Harm Than Good? (2024)

Braids have never been, and will never be, just another hairstyle for Black women. They’re a part of our culture, our roots, and our DNA. Hair braiding rituals across various regions of Africa can be traced as far back as 3500 BC, with many contemporary styles replicating—or at the very least being inspired by—ancient looks.

While braids have historically been used to identify with one’s tribe—and later as a means of communication for enslaved Africans—in contemporary North America, they’re more so worn as protective styling. This is often done in an effort to shield natural hair from heat and excessive manipulation. That said, Black women also get their hair braided to add a sense of ease to their overall beauty routine, as the get-up-and-go styles can significantly cut down the amount of time it takes to get ready. But despite our cultural ties and the convenience of plaits, there can come a point where they start to do more harm than good—especially when it comes to the state of your natural strands and scalp.

To find out more, Vogue spoke with several natural hair care experts to discuss the potential downsides of braids, and what you can do to keep your hair and scalp at their healthiest.

What to know before getting braids

Although we know braids give your curls a much-needed break from heavy product use and styling, your braider’s technique and level of training plays a huge factor in your overall experience and subsequent hair health.

That said, if you’re looking for someone to do your hair, a quick scroll through Instagram proves it’s easy to find a plethora of available braiders in any given city. However, the truth is that many of them do not possess a cosmetology license. In some instances, this is because several states, like Arkansas, Texas, and Virginia, do not require it. But for your own safety, it’s best to go to a licensed stylist. “The choice of a skilled braider plays a huge role,” explains celebrity hairstylist and hair-extension specialist Nafisah Carter. “It’s imperative to select an experienced person who won’t apply excessive tension, which can lead to scalp irritation and hair thinning.”

Furthermore, if you’re already experiencing any type of hair loss or have some sort of scalp condition—whether formally diagnosed or not—you should see a dermatologist before making your appointment or braiding your own hair at home.

“Braids can worsen or exacerbate existing scalp conditions like psoriasis, seborrheic dermatitis, and central centrifugal cicatricial alopecia,” Dr. Adeline Kikam, Houston-based board-certified dermatologist and founder of Brown Skin Derm, shares.

Early signs of potential damage and unlearning our own cultural norms

There’s a false notion within the Black community that feelings of discomfort are naturally intertwined with our hair care experience—when really, it should be a warning sign. Especially since, statistically, nearly 50% of Black women in the US will experience hair loss in their lifetime, with much of the condition being a result of improper styling methods.

Pain should not be ignored

Braiding appointments are seldom short; however, that doesn’t mean they need to be an uncomfortable experience. If you are feeling any type of pain or tenderness while getting your hair done, you need to inform your stylist immediately.

“When braids are too tight, this leads to damage of the hair follicle, as well as inflammation in the scalp, shares Atlanta-based, board-certified dermatologist Dr. Wallace Nozile. “[This is how] traction alopecia can occur.” Dr. Nozile explains how the condition causes the hairline to recede—typically along the top of the forehead and temples. “The hairs in this area are the most fragile and susceptible to damage, but it can happen in any area of the scalp where there’s high tension,” he adds.

Also, once you get home, Dr. Kikam advises to monitor for “tenting.”

“This is when hair is braided so tight that it pulls on the scalp and lifts it,” she explains. “Headaches are also a sign of excessive tension, so do not overlook this.”

Scalp irritation is not normal—it’s a sign something may be wrong

While we often think of “the tap” as some sort of right of passage, you should never leave an appointment with an irritated scalp. Any form of itchiness or inflammation can typically be traced back to the hair extensions or styling products used, and should be properly examined.

Dr. Nozile shares that heavy or bulky extensions are more likely to put physical stress on the scalp, which can degrade hair follicles over time. Carter agrees, noting that, should you add any hair to your style, you need to keep your natural density in mind and communicate this clearly with your braider. “For individuals with fine hair, larger braids may exert excessive weight on the strands,” the stylist explains. “Generally, medium-size braids are a safe choice, provided they are not overly heavy. The most harmful braids are those that are excessively tight and carry significant weight.”

Dr. Kikam says that, when possible, it’s typically a good idea to avoid extensions altogether—or at least to use minimal additional hair. However, if you do decide to add a few bundles to your look, don’t ignore scalp irritation, and monitor for any redness that may appear. You should also ask your stylist to see which products they will be using in advance.

“Some people have allergic reactions to the synthetic hair fibers or hair products used in styling—it’s often referred to as ‘braid itch,’” explains Dr. Kikam. “This can lead to inflammation, resulting in redness, itching, and bumps.”

And in the event you feel extreme discomfort, the MD advises to take the hair down immediately instead of waiting for these symptoms to go away on their own.

If you feel uncomfortable during your appointment, leave

Learning to communicate your true feelings with a hairstylist can be difficult, especially for Black women who are often told that pain endurance is a sign of strength. Some may also feel guilty about leaving an appointment early; however, always remember that it is better to feel bad in the moment rather than feel worse later if you experience any form of hair or scalp damage that may or may not be reversible.

The impact hair and scalp damage can have on our mental health

There’s no question that, regardless of race, the state of our hair impacts our mental health. But for Black people, the implicit bias we face in schools and professional settings as a result of our natural textures can add another layer of anguish.

“Experiencing hair damage or hair loss from improper braiding techniques can take a toll on self-esteem and confidence,” explains Dr. Afiya Mbilishaka, PhD, a natural hair stylist, psychologist, and founder of PsychoHairapy—an educational service that aims to bridge the gap between mental health and hair care in the Black community.

While more contemporary research is lacking, the Good Hair study conducted by the Perception Institute in 2016 found that Black women tend to experience higher levels of anxiety when it comes to their hair in comparison to their white counterparts—and this can be exacerbated by hair loss.

Also, since traction alopecia is known to be a lifestyle condition rather than genetic ailment—meaning it comes as a result of poor styling techniques rather than being a part of our biological makeup—there can be an additional sense of guilt or responsibility associated with those who experience this form of hair loss. “Beyond physical symptoms such as pain, itching, and hair thinning, traction alopecia can result in emotional distress,” Dr. Mbilishaka shares. “In some cases, hair loss can even trigger depressive episodes and the onset of social anxiety.”

How to enjoy braids while keeping your natural hair and scalp healthy

Despite the potential drawbacks of braids, this is a styling technique that has been a staple in the global Black community for eons, so plaits aren’t going anywhere. But we do have to make sure we are vigilant about educating ourselves on proper styling and maintenance techniques to ensure they serve their purpose as protective styles rather than a source of hair or scalp damage.

“There are numerous braiding options that minimize tension on your hair,” Carter shares. “I love knotless and boho braids. These styles involve less pulling, and many individuals prefer using human hair with these braids for a more gentle and long-lasting installation.”

Something else to keep in mind is that, although braids can shorten your wash day, regular cleansing isn’t something you can skip. “There’s a risk of developing fungal infections or folliculitis from trapped sweat and dirt underneath the braids,” Dr. Mbilishaka shares.

When it comes to washing the hair, Dr. Nozile advises to use a diluted shampoo or a scalp cleanser to avoid potential product buildup. TPH By Taraji’s Master Cleanse is a great option for protective styles. It offers a triple nozzle to ensure the product can be applied directly to the scalp.

“Focus on the areas where the braids and the scalp connect, and make sure to be slow and gentle to avoid frizz [and pulling],” the MD advises. “How often you should wash depends on lifestyle, but it should definitely be done at least once every two weeks when wearing braids.”

Regardless of the style you choose and how well you maintain your natural hair underneath, no set of braids should be kept in for more than eight weeks at a time, advises Dr. Mbilishaka—and it’s important to give your hair and scalp a break between appointments. “I typically advise a braid-free period of about two months, but this may vary based on style and the state of one’s hair,” says Dr. Kikam. Otherwise you may become more prone to damage due to constant tension, and have limited access to the scalp while cleansing.

What to do if you’re currently experiencing hair loss or scalp damage

If you have noticed any hair thinning, loss, or damage to the scalp as a result of braiding, there’s good news: If caught early, conditions like traction alopecia can be reversed. Just be sure to see a dermatologist who is well-versed in hair loss—specifically hair loss for coily textures—as soon as possible to develop a proper care plan.

In terms of treatments, Dr. Nozile shares that options can range from topical and oral medications, to intralesional Kenalog injections and PRP to stimulate the hair follicles. However, in some cases, a hair transplant may be a more viable option.